Mission's of Baja

On my way south I had noted some mission's I wanted to check out and decided to do them on my trip back to the north.  The missions pictured were built in the late 1600 or early 1700 time period by the Jesuit's.  When visiting San Javier there was a very old man up front at the altar praying.  Not wanting to disturb him I hung out at the back of the mission until he was finished.  Once he saw me he was all over me wanting to give me a tour.  Didn't speak a word of English but I followed him around anyway as he pointed out features of the church and cemetery.  Once the tour was over, a miracle occurred and he was able to come up with three English words.  Donation for him!  Thought it was funny so gave him $50 pesos if nothing else for his divine vision to make a quick buck.

Mission San Javier

Mission Loreto

Mission San Ignacio

Mission San Borja.  This one was really unique as it's about a 5 hour off-road excursion to visit. Slow going in a vehicle getting in here with four wheel required in a couple of spots.   After the drive in I was the only person in there and got a tour by by one of the inhabitants at the the mission.  A family of eight live in here full time and run a small ranch while also looking after the mission.  His family has been living in this area for seven generations. The young man pictured with the horses gave me a tour and spoke english well enough to where I could understand everything he was telling me.  Was really interesting as he took me throughout the mission and was very knowledgeable on its history. Well worth the time it took to drive back in here.

Gringo at the fights!

After leaving Aqua Verde I made my way back to Loreto.  Not much in the way of camping in Loreto so I took off down a side road and went in about 5 miles.  Came up on a small ranch and asked the owner if I could camp for the night.  No problemo!  Was set up when I hear a knock on the door about an hour after dark.  Owner telling me to grab my camera and to come with him.  Seemed like a nice enough guy how bad it could be.  Once in the truck told me we were going to a cockfight!  This would be a first for me.  When walking in I stood out like a neon sign.  Needless to say I was the only Gringo in sight and was getting some stares as I don't think they have many of us show up for the fights down here.  Was quite the experience.

Found it strange how they would hold and stroke the bird like it was a pet but when the time came would allow it to fight.  Many of the fights ended in one bird being killed.  Lots of betting going on with money changing hands after each fight.  Was very interesting observing the interaction between the participants and their handling of the roosters. I certainly don't condone it but understand that it is part of their culture. 

They strap on a razor sharp spur to the leg of each bird.  If struck with this it can cause instant death to the other rooster.  The rules are fairly complex to determine a winner if one bird is not killed outright.

One bird lives to fight another day.  The other will fight no more.

Aqua Verde

So we left Bahia Concepcion with much regret.  If one is into beaches, crystal clear water and laying around all day doing whatever you please this is the place.  If you fancy swimming with whale sharks it will fill that bill as well.  Plan was to head south and turn off towards Bahia San Juanico.  Another great beach area but much more remote.  Had heard the road going in was bad and required four wheel drive at times.  Would certainly keep the RV crowd out.  Ben decided to stick with me for another couple of nights as he wanted to get off the main road and felt travelling together would be safer.  For some reason we missed the turn and ended up at the military checkpoint just before getting into Loreto.  After having to go through and wasting time while they inspected the truck and camper decided to keep heading south.  I did not want to turn around and have to go back through the checkpoint.  Had heard of a place called Aqua Verde on the coast south of Loreto so after stopping in Loreto for lunch ...... Aqua Verde was on.

Hung out at a place called Auggie's down on the Malecon while Ben took care of some cell phone issues in town.

Puerto Aqua Verde is a little fishing village which is reached by a steep descent down to the water.  Once leaving the main highway you begin a gradual descent up into the Sierra San Franciso range.  Once you get up top you start down ...... in a hurry.  The mountains come right up from the Sea of Cortez in this area and it's a very scenic drive in towards the coast.

Once you reach the coast there are some hot springs and beach camping which is accessible at mid or low tide.  The hot springs can only be utilized at mid tide.  They are way too hot to enter without some sea water coming in.  At high tide you don't get much hot water so the time to use them is limited.  Not being a fan of hot water when it's blazing hot out anyway we passed on the soak.  You have to drive out on the actual sea shelf alongside the rocks to get around the point.  When we got there the tide was still in so not wanting to wait around for low tide we kept working our way down the coastline where we followed a wash in towards the coastline.    Found a perfect campsite where we stayed for two nights and three days.  This shot was taken the following day as we drove back down to check it out.  At high tide your wheels would be under water and undercarriage would be drenched.

Campsite at the end of a big wash directly on the beach

Only one other couple in here and they had told us they'd seen a big rattler in our campsite just two days ago.  Was certainly snake country in here as I'd seen two dead rattlers on the way in.  Being this far in if he were to get popped in here there is no way I'd get him out in time.  Considering his size a vet once told me that unless he gets bit in the vet's parking lot he doesn't have much of a chance. Petey did not receive his free roam pass while camping in here but he made the most of it.

Didn't want to leave him in here for these guys to pick over.

Sat around the fire that night and reflected on what a great camp spot it is in here.

Ben and I parted ways after our stay in here.  He left early on the third morning and I hung out till mid afternoon before making the climb back out towards the highway.

Whale Sharks - Bahia Concepcion

Looks like I'll survive the stomach problem as I felt 100 percent better the following morning.  The fish taco's in Mulege didn't cause any more disruptions so it's off to Bahia Concepcion.  Only a quick 30 minute drive to the next campsite at Coyote Bay so it was going to be an easy day.  You're allowed to camp directly on the beach here and the door to the camper was steps away from the water.  Spent three days and two nights here.

 Following morning I'm up at sunrise for a walk along the bay.

Later that morning we look directly in front of camp and 40 feet offshore is a Whale Shark swimming back and forth.  Neat experience to be able to get in the water with something like this.  Mark, another camper down the beach, had a small dingy and was took me out so that I could get some pics.

Mark and his buddy Roscoe.

Pretty much had the beach to ourselves.

 Baby deciding whether to go for another swim.  I've always been a Bulldog fan and couldn't seem to stop playing with and taking pictures of her.  She was a real sweetheart and friendly doesn't begin to describe her.

She opted for another one.

I may die!

After spending three nights at Laguna Le Liebre I continued south down towards Bahia Asunscion. Had met someone at the whale watching lagoon and was going to do some exploring in some remote canyons together after meeting back up in a couple of days.   On the drive down really started to feel bad and figured I'd picked up some kind of stomach bug.    Felt horrible so once I reached the coast I four wheeled up the coast a few miles, found a secluded spot, set up camp and sleep for what felt like days.  Did nothing outside Bahia Ascuncion other than sleep, try to stay hydrated and take Petey out. Petey loves to go for walks and if he doesn't get his walks he'll drive you nuts.  Not so fun when you feel like you want to crawl in a hole and die.  Was a long day and night but the following morning it appeared I may live but it could go either way. Decided not to stay and wait so packed up and headed towards Mulege.  Had told the other party that if I didn't show at the appointed meeting place they'd know I'd moved on.  Had been told of a park in Mulege that had great camping, hot shower, and wi-fi.  Needed somewhere to simply lay up for a couple of days to try and get rid of this stomach bug and recharge as I was still feeling like I'd been run over.

Bahia Asuncion

Couple of nights in Mulege and was feeling much better.  While there I had met Ben and his bulldog, Baby.  Ben had driven a 76 Volkswagon van out from Novia Scotia and had been on the road for 6 months.  We were both headed to Bahia Concepcion so decided to camp together for a couple of nights in Mulege.

Petey's new friend.......... Baby.

Ben's classic ride.

Felt well enough the following afternoon to drive into Mulege (4 miles) to look around, live on the edge and take the chance to put something back in my stomach.  

This guy looks trustworthy?  When eating these taco's all I could think of was how bad I'd felt over the past couple of days.  If I get something from these I may not make it out of Baja!

Up next, Whale Sharks in Bahia Concepcion.

Laguna Ojo De Liebre

After leaving CoCo's corner I just kept it pointed south and ended up just south of Guerrero Negro on the pacific side.  Beautiful area called Laguna Ojo De Liebre.  This is the bay where the Gray Whales come in to calf each year.  It is believed they come here due to the high salt content in the water which helps float their young to the surface upon arrival.  You end up having to drive about 15 miles off road through a salt flat to get to it.  Guard checks you in and allows you to drive through in order to reach the lagoon.  Camping is really nice ($5 a night) with a palapa.  Met an american guy who had been camped in the same spot for 6 weeks.  I had only planned a night but it was so nice ended up staying three nights here.  Went out on a whale tour the second day.  A great experience to be able to literally pet a whale and be this close.  Saw probably at least 80-100 whales in a two hour period.  Guide stated that most of the whales had already left the lagoon for northern waters.  We did have a couple of really good bumps and at one point the boat was literally sitting on the mothers back.  You're quite a ways from shore in a regular skiff.  Makes you ponder the possibilities!

Lots of bird life in the area as well

Sunset from camp