Saturday, October 17

McCarthy & Valdez - Alaska


Root Glacier viewed from camp outside McCarthy

Got back from Katmai National Park late that afternoon after a bumpy flight back to Homer.  Seeing as it wasn't getting dark until around 9 pm I decided to load up and start heading north back towards Anchorage.  Figured I'd just pull over after knocking off some miles.  Next destination was McCarthy.  This is another area that was on my list to check out.  I had started this way when I was up here on my motorcycle trip last summer but I wimped out due to heavy rains. I had started in but the road was a mud fest and the forecast was for more rain. This is another one of those Alaskan roads where it's one way in, dead ends and then back out.  This one is about 90 miles in with about 60 of that being dirt. Since I was in the truck this year I had no excuse not to make it to McCarthy.  Of course, since I wasn't on the bike the weather was perfect.  Wish I could have described the road as perfect.  It was beat to hell and the roughest, most pot-holed I'd traveled this trip.  Was slow going as it took me bout 51/2 hours to do the 60 miles. Later learned from a local in McCarthy that the state hadn't graded since early May and the road was the worse he'd seen it in over 20 years.  Just my luck!  You can't actually drive all the way into McCarthy unless you're on a motorcycle or small ATV as there is a wide footbridge which crosses the Chitina River about a mile or so outside of town.  You can either walk or catch a shuttle into town and the Kennicott Mine area.  Camping is allowed along the river ($20 per night with no services, other than a pit toilet, as it's on private land)  at the footbridge with great views of the Root Glacier.  Expensive for simply a place to park but the views are incredible. The town of McCarthy is an interesting place with a year-round population of about 3 dozen people.  No power to anything in town unless provided by generator, no paved streets, couple of stop signs, no gas station, one bar, couple of boarding houses and one small grocery store.  It is a remote town literally at the end of the road.  If coming to camp for a few nights, I would suggest that you be well stocked prior to arriving.  Not much here and what is available is expensive.  Town proper is located in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. The town has a lot of interesting history and worth reading up on prior to visiting.  A really good read is Pilgrim's Wilderness.  

Due north of McCarthy at the end of the road shown in red, to the right of Mt. Sanford, is the Nabesna Road where I had been a couple of weeks earlier.  Lot of wilderness between the two points.
Old part of the railroad trestle paralleling the road into McCarthy.  Originally the only way into the area.  Was used for hauling Cooper Ore out of the Kennicott Mine.  Was quite an engineering feat building this railroad into the area considering the weather and terrain.

Probably the most remote coffee house I've ever been to.  Sits about 15 miles outside of McCarthy and trust me when I tell you......there is nothing else here other than a few remote cabins.  Hung out here for a few hours with a couple of guys that live back in here year round.  To say they are "off the grid" is an understatement.  Was an interesting couple of hours hearing some of their winter exploits.

Liberty Falls.  On the road heading into McCarthy.



Had a couple of different campsites while in the area.  Ended up spending four nights just outside McCarthy.



Some hikers crossing the base of the glacier.

Did quite a bit of hiking during the four days I spent here.  From the Kennicott mine area there are numerous hikes to choose from.  This one goes in for about 9 miles alongside the Root Glacier.


Fall colors were on full display.

Old mine perched up on the ridgeline.  Wanted to go up and explore this but ran out of time.  Had also just about bumped into a nice sized grizzly where the trail started up here.  Close enough to grab for the bear spray but should have gone for the camera instead.  At the time, spray seemed like the better choice though.  He headed up the trail towards the old mine so I thought I'd let him have it.  Pretty thick brush and I didn't feel like following him into it.


Petey having a little dinner with a view later that evening.


Lake at the base of the glacier.


Downtown McCarthy


Potato Head dining establishment in McCarthy.  Excellent food!


About 5 miles outside of McCarthy you can visit the Kennicott Mine which is now owned and operated by the National Park Service.  Can easily spend a day here hiking around and touring the old buildings.


Rough life here in McCarthy.  Great area to visit if you're into old mining history, hiking and just want to get away from it all.  It's a cool place at the end of the road.  I hope to get back here one day.

From McCarthy I headed to Valdez and ran into rain.....and lots of it.  This was now my third time in Valdez and I have yet to be there without rain.  Not being able to do much else I spent only two nights but was able to get a few wildlife shot as the weather just didn't want to co-operate.  Shame because Valdez is a beautiful area.  


Young eagle down along the waterfront.


This guy was tearing up the Salmon.  He ate well during the 30 minutes I watched him.


 Headed to Haines, Alaska from here...........

4 comments:

  1. Sure would like to pick your brain about some pointers for a rookie four wheel camper owner looking to follow the same nowhere to be path soon. We pick up our camper this Friday

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  2. Marc....sent you an email with my phone #. I'd be more than happy to talk with you about your upcoming trip.

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  3. Hi Park, thank u for your time and I look forward to your advise. As of now I still have not received a email to my inbox or spam folder but it's no rush. Thank you, marccook44@gmail.com

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  4. Thank you, Park, for sharing such an adventurous trip. I followed every segment of the journey and enjoyed every word of your story. It was like being there with you. Until the next trip, God Bless! Mark Dwight

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