Mojave Trail & Baja (Part 4)

Church in a small village outside Bahia Tortugas

We'd been on the Sea of Cortez side and were now working our way back across the peninsula to the Pacific side.  Wayne had some beta on the Peninsular De Vizcaino area of Baja that neither of us had been to and we wanted to check it out.  We had been out to Bahia Ascuncion a few years ago but were looking to access some new terrain further west.  It was reported to be remote with some challenging conditions.  We spent the remainder of the day working our way across to the Pacific side.  Rolling into Bahia Tortuga well after dark we opted to find a motel in the fishing village.  Our  $20 room wasn't much but it did have running water and the owner allowed us to park our rigs in the locked compound.  The owner didn't speak any English but we were able to get some information on the area we were headed to by showing him our maps and doing a lot of pointing.  We first wanted to drive all the way out to the point and the little fishing village of Punta Eugenia and Chester.  Here the gravel road ends and we had to backtrack back to Bahia Tortugas to access what we'd come for. The total off-road route once we left pavement would be around 90 miles, a mixture of really soft sand and some rocky sections.  Airing the tires down in the soft stuff was the only way to get through but we were worried about the grade in some places.  We pulled up to a couple of spots that I wasn't sure I could get up.  Wayne had already gone up one of the larger dunes and I got out and walked it.  The first couple of tries were a no go and I had to back down.  Eventually, with a speed run at the bottom section, I was able to top out.  Our main concern, once we crested out in the dunes, was the wash which we'd need to locate to get along the coast and also lead us back out to the pavement.  This is one of the main things I love about exploring Baja, you never know what's going to be around the next corner and what the conditions will be.  Where we were at there certainly aren't any road signs.  Route finding plays a key roll in places.  We continued working our way through the dunes and as dark was coming on I noted a steep side road leading down to the coast.   I got out and walked it all the way down to ensure we could get back up.  It was a great campsite along the coast and we had no problems coming out the following morning.  We debated staying two nights here but opted to move on.  Later that night as we were sitting around the fire we noted truck lights way off in the distance.  We found this a little strange as there is absolutely nothing out here for probably 30 miles in either direction.  It's pretty tough driving in places and the direction they were headed was even more remote.  I suppose they saw the fire once up on the higher dunes.  Anyway, they kept coming and eventually pulled into camp.  Always a little disconcerting when someone rolls into your camp well after dark.  We met them, two men in a pick-up, as they pulled down the sandy road into camp.  Due to the language barrier, we never really did ascertain what they were doing that far out in the middle of the night.  They eventually left after it appeared they were sizing up the Gringos.  We were probably reading a lot into the whole situation but it doesn't hurt to be a little cautious when this far out.  Once we realized they'd made the turn and were headed to our camp I slipped a can of bear spray in my back pocket.  Better safe than sorry.  Ike, Wayne's dog, is a pretty good deterrent when unexpected guests roll in.  There is no doubt he means business.   Plus, there's always Petey.  No one, and I mean no one, wants a piece of Petey!  

Fishing village.

Camp for the night.

Petey hanging out in camp.  I ask you....would you want a piece of this?  I pity the fool that rolls into my camp uninvited!

Truth be known......Ike is what I wouldn't want a piece of!

Whale backbone that was washed up on the rocks below camp.

Found pockets along the coast where these large rocks had been tumbled smooth and round.

Following day we kept working our way through the dunes in search of the wash which would lead us to the coast.  Our plan was to access the coast and drive along the beach to access a point that was reported to have some excellent fishing.  Coming out of the dunes we eventually hit the wash but there was a problem.  Once we dropped down this dune there was no way we're going to go back up it.  It wasn't that tall but it was steep and the sand like sugar.  I had no doubt I couldn't come back up it once I dropped down.  Once in the wash, a left turn would take us 8 miles to the coast.  A right turn and 25 miles up the wash would get us back to the pavement.  If the wash closed out headed back out to pavement this could turn into a real adventure. We dropped in, turned left and were stymied about a quarter of a mile from the coast.  The wash was really rough in places and slow going over small boulders.  The wash kept closing down and eventually closed out leading into an estuary which was holding quite a bit of water.  We had to walk the remaining 1/4 mile to the beach.  No way we were getting the rigs in there as there were dunes on either side of the wash that we couldn't  get over.  We were pretty disappointed as the area was remote and the camping would have been excellent out on the beach.  Wayne had visions of catching some big fish in here as well.  The beach here is massive and runs for miles in either direction.  I forgot to take the camera down but we saw multiple whale bones and a perfectly good sea kayak that had washed up on the beach.  Anywhere else and that kayak would have found a new home but we had no way of hauling it out of there. This is one of those areas that you've got to work at to get to. I'm sure we would have stayed in here for multiple nights had we made it.  Hopefully, we'll be back to this area and with some changing conditions can access the beach next time.  

Pictures never seem to depict the steepness of something...it was steeper than it looks here.  Wayne named this Commitment Dune.  I was coming down it but was pretty sure I couldn't come back up it.  

After failing to make the coast we turned around and drove a few miles back up the wash and set up camp.  In this picture you can see the steepness of the dunes.  Not tall, but just steep coming up out of the wash.  Was a beautiful night in a remote area.  With a couple of cold beers and an excellent meal that Wayne cooked up, we sat around watching a meteor shower late into the evening.

We gained some high ground and Wayne was glassing for pavement.

 Spent the day crawling back out to pavement.

Petey was exhausted!

  

Mojave Trail & Baja (Part 3)

After our successful rescue, we were back on the move and debated whether to head due east across the lake bed in hopes of intersecting the road which would take us south towards San Felipe.  It was a gamble taking the lake bed across to the east as we weren't sure exactly where it would bring us out, or if it even would.  We opted to backtrack the way we came in but this was now going to require us to go back through Mexicali to reach Mex 5 which would take us south again.  Our destination for the day was going to be Bahia de Los Angeles.  From there we'd get back on dirt and head south towards Pancho's place and San Franciscito.  I've been through this stretch several times.  It's always a fun experience stopping in and hanging out with a Baja icon, Pancho.  We planned to camp on the beach just down from his place and hang out for a few days. We ran out of daylight well before Bahia de Los Angeles and found an arroyo to drive up where we wouldn't be seen from the road.  One of my cardinal rules when in Baja is to not drive at night.  It's just not worth it considering the road conditions and the real chance of livestock or burros on the road.We camped in the arroyo for the night and broke camp early the following morning continuing down through Puerticitos, past CoCo's Place and then on to Bahia de Los Angeles, where one always has to stop for fish tacos.  I also ran into the store to pick up a bottle of Tequila and dog food for Pancho.  He lives about 40 miles from the nearest store so anytime someone brings some goodies he's very appreciative of it.  The remainder of the day was spent slogging along the rough ass dirt road south to Pancho's place.  We set up camp, hung out and did much of nothing for the next three days. A few fishermen and Pancho were the only others we saw and we had the beach to ourselves.  At night Pancho would come down for a beer or two and hang out by the fire with us.  With his limited English and our limited Spanish, we mostly sat around the fire, sipped on cold beer and listened to the coyotes back in the dunes.  One thing I was able to get out of Pancho was that the Tequila that I had just given him the previous day was.....finito!  Life in Baja!  More info about Pancho can be read here Pancho from an earlier post. 

View of Bahia de Los Angeles

Pancho

View from the beach looking towards Pancho's place.  He doesn't have much of a dwelling but oh the view and solitude.

Set up camp and stayed for three nights.

 Ike lounging around camp as the fishermen were heading out.

Launching early one morning.

Couple of fishermen came to camp one evening in search of water.  Their captain had left them for the night and forgot to leave any water.  Not that they needed to but they gave us this nice fish for some water and sodas.  I filleted it out and Wayne cooked it up for supper that night.

 A short hike over the beach dunes from camp and you could watch the sunset to the west.

An area of concern to me here was the boldness and quantity of Coyotes in the area.  Ike was constantly chasing them away from camp but I had to keep a close eye on Petey.  He could easily be snatched by a Coyote.  They were a constant around camp and would patrol the beach early each morning.

After three nights at Pancho's, we continued south where we spent one night at San Francisquito before turning west away from the Sea of Cortez.  The Baja 1000 race had just utilized this road the previous month and the trophy trucks had really done a number on it in places.  It was slow going until we reached San Francisquito. We had decided to cross back over to the Pacific side.  On the way, we viewed one of the most impressive caves with paintings I have ever come across.  I've seen many in Baja, but this one was special.  Interesting hanging out here and pondering what must have transpired here hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago.  A local we met in Francisquito told us about it.  It's not marked on any maps and if you don't know what dirt road to turn down it would be really tough to just stumble on it.  You park and have to hike in about a 1/2 mile with a little climbing and there it is.  The view looking out over the valley was impressive as well.  

Next, some new ground that Wayne, nor I, had yet been to in Baja.  

Mojave Trail & Baja (Part 1)

Plan was to head back down to Baja for about two months.  Tiffany and the boys would fly down during the Christmas holidays.  I made a call to my friend, Wayne, up in Canada as I knew he was headed down as well.  We decided we'd meet up before crossing the border, jump on the Mojave Trail for a few days, and then cross the border together.

I arrived a couple of nights before Wayne where I camped, hiked a little and explored the area for a couple of days prior to his arrival.  Wayne arrived late one afternoon and we departed the following morning to get on the trail and head east.  Our first order of business was a fairly substantial water crossing. I was first in line and when I pulled up to this my thought was that I should get out and walk across to check for depth and bottom conditions, or possibly end up swimming, the crossing to ensure it was a doable crossing.  I opted for the "go big or go home" method and threw caution out the window, slowly pulling in.  This crossing is probably well over 100 feet in width and as the water started creeping towards the bottom of the window I began praying that it didn't get any deeper and god forbid, the engine stalls out.  With the water level approaching the bottom of the window I thought I'd made a big mistake but after a few tense moments the truck eventually started crawling out the other side.  Exiting the truck, water poured out of the cab.  Carpet was wet but hey, I'm in the desert and it will dry.  I grabbed the camera and shot Wayne coming across behind me.  This was certainly the deepest crossing I'd done with my Tacoma.

The remainder of the day we crawled east along the trail where we became lost a few times.  Tough following the trail in places as it exits out of some major washes and you just don't know which direction to take.  We ended up in some large dunes where we became stuck but eventually reconnected with what we assumed was the trail. We were still lost but enjoyed a spectacular full moon and ended up making camp for the night.

 The trail is out there somewhere.

Stuck!

 

  Moon rising as we looked for a campsite that evening.

The following day we got back on the trail and kept working our way east towards Marl Spring.  After camping at the springs the second night we needed to make a decision as to whether to finish the trail or cut off and head south towards the border.  The weather was really turning cold and it was forecasted that the winds the following day would be a consistent 40+ mph.  We decided that the warmer weather of Baja was looking good so after two nights on the Mojave Trail, we cut off and pointed the rigs south towards Baja.  I'll have to return later to finish the second half.

Camp at Marl Spring.

Stopped and did some hiking in the eastern part of the preserve.

Bella Coola.....Again (Part 2 of 2)

View was so good here we just pulled over at a wide spot in the road and stayed the night.

After a couple of nights back in the Odegard Falls and Purgatory Glacier area and worked our way back out to pavement near the little community of Hagensborg.  It's a bump in the road with a small grocery story, a one pump gas station and a couple of commercial campgrounds.  From there we  headed further west towards the Burke Channel and the actual town of Bella Coola.  Bella Coola lies at the end of the paved road and any further travel west from here requires a boat or plane.  It's certainly larger than Hagensborg but not by much.  The entire Bella Coola Valley, which is 50 miles in length, only contains approximately 2300 people. There is a forest service road out of Bella Coola that heads south and goes up over the pass towards the South Bentinck Arm and that was where we were headed. The road coming in here is pretty steep in places along with some washed out sections.  A four wheel drive is highly recommended on the road.  Possibility of fallen trees across the road can be an issue in here as well. It's about 14 miles in before the road surrenders to the brush and mud.  An old ATV trail continues on but the truck, four-wheel drive or not, wasn't going.   At the roads end you'll find a few spots to camp right along a beautiful mountain lake and a primitive hiking trail leading down to the Bentinck Arm.  I only hiked in a couple of miles before heading back to camp. It's a long way down, about 6 miles one way, and a steep grade coming back out.  Due to the mileage, muddy terrain and climb coming back it makes for a full day.  Too far for Petey and I'm nervous about leaving him for an extended period.   I always have visions that someone is going to break into the truck one day and steal him or the weather will turn warm and he'll overheat or something.  Not sure who in the hell would break into the truck as I saw one other vehicle camping  in here for 3 nights and the temps fell to freezing overnite.  What can I say, I'm a little over-protective or maybe I was using that as an excuse not to hike all day.

 Still some snow once you get up out of the valley.

 Large glacier across the valley.

 The meadows up here were covered in blueberries.  After two days of hiking around I wasn't sure I'd ever get rid of the blue tongue and lips.  I ate enough of these damn things to bring down a horse.

 Blueberries attracted this guy as well.   You'd think he would want to be down in the valley feeding on the salmon but I think they really want to avoid any contact with Grizzlies.  He was fat and healthy though, so not sure he needed the salmon.

Got an invite one morning from a camp a few hundred yards from mine.  These were the only other people I say in here over three days.  Their family owned a ranch in Wyoming and cooked up some of their farm eggs, homemade sausage and hot coffee.  With frost on the ground that morning we  stood by the fire, shot the shit waiting for the sun, and wolfed down breakfast.

Petey and I spent the following night near this lake up on the pass.  I saw the big black bear pictured above just on the other side of this lake.  Having not had a good shower in over a week I did a little skinny dipping here one afternoon and I can tell you.....this water is cold!  Petey was watching me like I'd lost my mind.

Another black bear the following day on a hike near camp.

It's a beautiful area up here.  The view around every corner is stunning.

After a couple of nights in here it was back to Bella Coola where I decided to head east up out of the valley and do some exploring up on the Chilcotin Plateau.  I spent the afternoon at the harbor trying to get a ride across the inlet to an old fish cannery but couldn't score a boat ride.  Well, I did have a fellow say he could take me across but wouldn't be able to wait or come back for me so that wasn't going to work.  It'd be a long cold swim back to the truck.  I'd been told it was a really cool area with lots of photo ops.  Maybe next time.

Harbor at Bella Coola.  Cannery is on the other side of this inlet.

Here's something you don't see everyday.  A bull moose hanging out with cows.  A local had told me about this and where I might see it so I kept my eyes peeled and sure enough, there he stood.  Story is that he comes down in the valley from up on the plateau every year and to their knowledge is the only moose in the valley.  They guess he gets lonely and just likes hanging out with cows.  He's not a pet but a wild moose.  Not sure about the validity of this story but it's something I haven't seen before.

I spent one more night along the Atnarko River and you guessed it.....more Grizzlies.  If you haven't guessed it by now I enjoy watching and photographing bears in their natural habitat.  They are a majestic animal and should be protected.  They are currently being hunted as trophies in Canada by so called "sport hunters" and may lose their endangered species status here in the states.  It should be a criminal act to shoot one of these animals for mere sport.  I encourage you to visit http://www.davidsuzuki.org/issues/wildlife-habitat/projects/grizzly-bears/ to see what actions you might take to help save the Grizzlies. 

As I was standing along the river at daybreak on my last morning in the valley this beautiful Grizzly stepped out of the brush and struck this pose as the fog rolled down the river.  

 Sow and her cub at another spot later that morning.

Last one before climbing up over the pass to the Chilcotin Plateau.

We were headed towards Chilko Lake and then the Fraser River. The plan was to stay off-road and work my way towards Lillooet, camping for a few nights along the Fraser River.  Chilko Lake turned out to be kind of a bust as the weather turned and we got some cold temps and snow.  The lake is over 40 miles in length and one of BC's largest lakes above 3000 ft in elevation.  It's a vast area and a small portion of it is accessible via dirt road.  Floatplane, boat or hiking is the only way to really access and explore. I'd planned to stay at Chilko Lake a few days but after having to repair a flat in the cold and snow the following morning, and a dismal forecast for the next few days, I decided to keep working east.  Plus, I only saw one sow and her three cubs but couldn't get any pictures worth keeping.  Supposedly, the fires, along with a below average salmon run, had really affected the number of grizzlies that were coming to the area to feed. Grizzlies or not, the area has a lot to offer.  Over the next week we worked our our way back to Lillooet and then over to Gold Bridge and Pemberton before popping back out on pavement.  From there it was slab all the way down through Whistler, Vancouver and back into Tacoma.  

 Sheep along a ridge.

 Pair of bald eagles along the Fraser River.

 Mare and her foal.

 Young fox near an old barn at Chilko Lake.

 Fall colors were coming in.

Big open country here.

 Plenty of waterfalls to be found.

 Great horned owl near camp one night.

Carpenter Lake in the South Chilcotin Range.

 Exploring another side road on the way into Chilko Lake.

So many roads to explore.

Always make a stop at this old cemetery just outside an Indian village.

Figured these two had died together in a car accident.  So young.  Not sure why I like roaming around old cemeteries but I always seem to stop when I come across one.  Walking through and wondering about the occupant's past life is interesting.

Camp for the night along the Fraser River.

Although a mighty hunter, Petey does enjoy a nice warm bed in the camper at night.  He is currently catching up on his rest and will hopefully be back out roaming around somewhere soon.