Lost Coast....almost.

Driving the beach off Fort Stevens.  Wreck of the Peter Iredale.

One last opportunity to take off for a week or so before heading east in late February.  More on this trip later but it will consist of being on the road for about four months.  Tiffany had a business trip down to Arizona last week so Petey and I decided to head down to the Lost Coast in Northern California for some roaming about time.  Having been several times it is the highlight of the west coast area.  Always a gamble to go this time of the year due to the weather but we figured what the hell, how bad can it be.  As it turned out, pretty bad....towards the end of the trip.  As I'm typing this I just heard over the radio that the bay area has received more rain in January since they began tracking rainfall.   Since we had no itinerary or set destination it wasn't that big of a deal. First few days were good, last few not so much.  A good time was still had. One major benefit of traveling this area during the winter months is lack of people.  The Oregon/California coast during the summer is crawling with them.  Personally, I'll take the less than perfect weather and solitude.  We left Tacoma, dropped south to Olympia and then made a bee line for the coast.  From there we worked our way south over the next week stopping to explore, hike and check out some areas we hadn't been in before. 

Newport Oregon

Wreck of the Peter Iredale on the Oregon Coast.  It went down in 1906 and this is what remains.  With four-wheel drive, you can access this and drive up and down the coast for miles in either direction during low tide.   Broke camp inland and got out here about an hour before sunrise. Was glad to have the truck out here as it was well below freezing and windy.  Being able to sit in the truck and drink coffee awaiting the sunrise was a bonus. It was....take a few pics, back to the truck, warm up, suck down more coffee....back out, few more pics and repeat.   Went back for the sunset (below) that evening.  

For the next few days, we kept working south on the Oregon coast.  The vistas are never ending and when the weather cooperates it's tough to beat this area.

 Shores Acre State Park.  I had hoped that the storm sitting off the coast would bring some of the huge waves that this area is known for but I was a few days early and after spending a day and night here decided to move on.  Here is a video from the net worth watching of the area during such an event.  I need to get back here and witness this first hand.

Astoria, Oregon.

Cape Arago Lighthouse

Full moon setting when up early one morning.

During a short hike late one afternoon I watched this poor fella come out of the surf and work his way up the beach.  You could tell something wasn't right with him.  Pretty sure they don't come ashore like this alone.  Got to this point and didn't even acknowledge that I was in the area.  I could walk right up on him and no response at all. Still breathing but seemed to be laboring with each breath.  The following morning it wasn't that far to get back to this cove so I hiked back in to see if he was still there.  Still in the exact same spot and now evident that it was dying.  Felt sorry for the old guy.

Once I got towards the southern part of Oregon, the weather was looking bad. Heavy winds, as in 50-60 MPH, and rain were forecast along the Lost Coast area.  Plus, I had already encountered some slide areas that were being cleared along some of the back roads.  Where I was headed, I doubted the roads would even be passable.  Most of them are dirt and are not priority when closed due to slides or downed trees.  One area I had wanted to get back to was Sinkyone Wilderness State Park.  The road going in drops rapidly to the coast and is susceptible to being closed in severe weather.  I've heard of people being in there and not being able to get out for a few days due to a road closure. It's one way in and one way out so there are no alternate routes.  So, based on the forecast, the Lost Coast area was out.  I headed back inland, hiked and hung out in the Redwoods for a couple of days and then worked further inland to the Six Rivers National Forest area.  Weather wasn't anything to write home about as we had winds and rain but nothing like the coast was getting.  Explored some new areas I hadn't been in before so it wasn't a total bust.

California was getting hit hard with the heavy rains and this scene came up several times during the trip.

 Abandoned general store and post office in Zenia, Ca. (pop. 180)

 Back road in California

 Redwoods

 Roosevelt Elk

A roof that has seen a little rain over the years.  Back road in California.

Large old oak with a light dusting of snow and the fog early one morning from camp.

I'll wrap this post up with a couple of people I met.  I always seem to run into some interesting characters when out on the road and this trip didn't disappoint.  I never did get her name but I'll refer to her as the  Dachshund Lady.  She had four on leash, two in the stroller and two more back home.  The six she had with her were barking none stop and giving her nothing but trouble.  She had spotted Petey and stopped to talk but that was next to impossible.  They were a loud, rambunctious mass.  She's attempting to ask about Petey while screaming over the chaos of her herd, untangling the mess and tending to the two in the stroller.  It was quite a sight.  Petey just stood there looking up at me with that WTF look.  From what little bit I could get from her I was able to gather that she is a major, and I mean major, lover of Dachshunds.  You'd have to be to put up with that herd and sport that headgear in public.

I ran into Brant along the coast as well.  He was pulling the tarped trailer headed north with his dog and I struck up a conversation.  He had made his rig from  a couple of wagons, covered it in a tarp with some duct tape.  Had his sleeping bag, stove and was all set up to be out of the weather each night.  He'd  been in the Marines for four years and had currently been working as a helicopter mechanic when that job ended due to some cut backs.  Decided he needed an adventure so he made his home on wheels, rigged up a harness for him and his buddy, pointed it north and started walking.....to Alaska.  That's right, he was walking to Alaska.  Now that's an adventure.

Soon as Petey gets some rest we'll be back out on the road soon.

Quick Autumn Trip

Finally, dirt under the wheels.  Petey's and the Chinook.

Here's what I hate, ok dislike, as hate's a strong word, about the corridor between Portland and Seattle....friggin traffic and people.  Saving grace is that just a short distance,  east or west, of this cement slab one can find ample solitude and scenery.   Deciding I needed some of each, we planned to leave on Wednesday and spend five nights out roaming about, but no, the sewer god's had something else in mind for me. Tiffany's sewer line at the warehouse decided it needed some TLC. In order to provide this required TLC, a large hole would be in order.  Sadly, I was chosen to be the digger. Nothing more fun than moving dirt and working with plugged sewer lines. 

Designated shit pipe digger

This endeavor cut into the roam about time but we were able to leave Friday morning and after fighting the normal I-5 traffic, finally put some dirt/gravel under the tires near Packwood.  One can leave the small town of Packwood just south of Mount Rainier and explore quite a few backroads heading south through the Gifford Pinochet National Forest. Eventually, these backroads will dump you out near Hood River in Oregon.  It's approximately 100 miles between the two areas. There was some washed out roads which required some go-arounds but we eventually made it to Lake Takhlakh which we had all to ourselves.  Due to the intermittent rain showers, low-lying cloud cover, and the elevation (4400 ft) the first night out was damp and cold. With Tiffany bundled up in her pajamas and the heat cranking, we survived the night. 

With the weather conditions we had upon our arrival, you would have never known Mount Adams, at an elevation of 12,280, was out there somewhere looming over the lake. A drastic weather improvement during the night and with sunrise, Mount Adams was indeed there.

     Lake Takhlak and Mount Adams

We wasted an hour enjoy coffee alongside the lake before heading south towards Hood River.  A few short hikes and stops along the way.

 Twin Falls along the Lewis River

 Mount St Helens

 Water and green are in abundance along this route

After a late lunch in Hood River at one of the local breweries, it was off to find a spot for the night.  Ended up in Viento State Park. Wouldn't recommend this spot for camping as it sits right alongside the train tracks.  Seemed like a train came along on the hour throughout the night. Following day we worked our way along the historic route 30 through the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area.  Hiking trails, neat gorges, and waterfalls being abundant along this section.

Oneonta Gorge

Bonneville Dam

Ended up in the little town of Troutdale where we discovered dispersed (free) camping was hard to come by so we stopped at McMennamin's Resort well after dark and hoped to just stay in the large parking lot.  Figured we'd spend the night there and leave for home early the next morning.  Didn't happen.  No sooner had we gotten ready to settle in for the night and security came along and ran us off. Guy was nice about it and told us the location of a Wal-Mart that allowed overnight stays in their lot. Considering the late hour....parking lot at Wal Mart would have to do. An early departure the following morning and we were able to cruise back into Tacoma with a quick Autumn trip in the books.

Eastern Oregon

One of many long remote dirt/gravel roads in the area.

Three weeks ago I was in the lush rainforest along the coast of British Colombia looking for grizzlies.  This past week a friend of mine, Kurt, along with our faithful companions, Bo and Petey, were out exploring the high desert basin and Steen Mountain in eastern Oregon. Two vastly different areas but each with their own merits. Kurt and I left Bend late one afternoon and two hours later were looking for some boondock camping between Bend and Burns.  We located a dirt road heading up towards a ridgeline and after maybe a mile of crawling along and gaining some altitude found a level spot for the night. A short walk with the dogs and we called it a night. The following morning with the sun lighting the valley floor we broke camp and worked our way back off the ridge towards the highway.

Kurt working his Sprinter Van off the ridge back towards pavement.

Once back on pavement, our destination was the Alvord Desert at the eastern base of Steen Mountain. Each of us has probably explored and camped in this area dozens of times over the years but never seem to tire of it and continue to return.  It's one of those areas that is just far enough away from any major town to keep the crowds out. It is by far one of my favorite destinations in Oregon. It's worth coming out if for nothing more than the milkshakes at Field's one store. Easily the best milkshake I've ever had. Bar none! The remote distance along with the blessing that there are no tourist traps are key factors why few venture this way.   Unless one is into the outdoor scene most people have no reason to stop over.  It's remote, void of people with few services. It does offer stunning vistas, solitude, and miles of open country.  If one is seeking some solitude, it can certainly be found in the area without having to work at it. Some things have changed since my last visit two years ago. They now have a caretaker at the hot springs along with a small primitive campground and....they charge to soak. In the old days, it was simply there and you soaked. I'm not sure you can stop development, even in the last few remaining remote spots. The hot springs were located on a major ranch alongside a gravel road and many used it over the years.  Eventually, the ranch had to do something to control it's usage so they hired the caretaker and made some improvements to the area. I hate development of something like this but I think it may be a good thing in this case.  Hopefully, it will remain small and not develop into something else. Not sure if it's still true but at one time Harney County was the least populated county in the lower 48. From what I observed on this trip I'd say that statistic still holds true. The major metropolis of Fields (population of around 200 and those are well spread out) is about 100 miles from Burns, the nearest town of any size. Little lies between the two other than the one pump town of Frenchglen.

Shot by Kurt while flying his drone out on the Playa.

We have lift-off.

Lone track with some dust devils off in the distance.

 Old homestead with Steen Mountain near Fields.

 Alvord Hot Springs.

 Afternoon soak.

Kurt's faithful companion, Bo. To say that this dog loves chasing a ball is putting it mildly.  

Petey keeping an eye on Kurt as he returns to camp.

 Petey won't chase the ball but he'll damn sure steal it and gnaw on it if Bo isn't paying close attention.

Petey getting it done out on the playa.

Afterwards, a nice nap was in order.

The wind had really picked up as the day progressed so we decided to camp on the edge of the playa and if still howling in the morning, leave and head back to the west side of Steen Mountain.  We'd do the Steen Loop looking for some photo ops and camp somewhere on the mountain. Regrettably, the wind was still howling in the morning so we packed up and left in hopes that the wind would be less on the western side.

 Gorge on Steen Mountain.

 Not sure why I had never been in here before but Kurt said it was worth checking out.  It was gated so we unloaded the dogs and hiked the remaining mile or so to access the homestead.  Click on the following link if you want to read more about the brothers.  Riddle Brothers Historic Homestead 

 Fall colors on the western slope.

Couple of wild horses up on Steen Mountain.

View from up top at around 10,000 feet.  The loop road, the highest in the state, takes you right up to the rim with views of the Alvord Desert below.

After dropping some altitude we camped down near Fish Lake. Some hiking down in one of the valleys that afternoon with some pictures of the fall colors. The temperature really dropped that night as the small pond we camped next to was frozen over the following morning.

Kurt needed to get back to Bend so after a breakfast in Frenchglen we parted ways. I've travelled with Kurt on numerous occasions and it's always a good time. Thanks again Kurt. I decided to head over to the Hart Mountain Refuge to spend one more night in the area before heading back towards Bend.  I knew it would be another cold night but with the hot spring at the campground, how bad could it be. After gassing up in Frenchglen (at almost $4.00 a gallon) I was headed to Hogback Road which is about 40 miles of gravel before I'd get to where camp would be for the night.

Hart Mountain Hot Spring. It was cold out and I even got some spitting snow late that afternoon.  I didn't utilize this spring but soaked in this one.

Not a bad spot to spend a couple of hours.

The skies were really forecasting a storm moving in but we got lucky and never did get rain. Prior to finding a camp spot, Petey and I spent the afternoon driving around exploring some side roads, hiking, and doing much of nothing, which both of us have mastered. Sorry for the long post with too many pictures but it's a great area with lots to see.

I guess that about covers it.