One of many long remote dirt/gravel roads in the area.
Three weeks ago I was in the lush rainforest along the coast of British Colombia looking for grizzlies. This past week a friend of mine, Kurt, along with our faithful companions, Bo and Petey, were out exploring the high desert basin and Steen Mountain in eastern Oregon. Two vastly different areas but each with their own merits. Kurt and I left Bend late one afternoon and two hours later were looking for some boondock camping between Bend and Burns. We located a dirt road heading up towards a ridgeline and after maybe a mile of crawling along and gaining some altitude found a level spot for the night. A short walk with the dogs and we called it a night. The following morning with the sun lighting the valley floor we broke camp and worked our way back off the ridge towards the highway.
Kurt working his Sprinter Van off the ridge back towards pavement.
Once back on pavement, our destination was the Alvord Desert at the eastern base of Steen Mountain. Each of us has probably explored and camped in this area dozens of times over the years but never seem to tire of it and continue to return. It's one of those areas that is just far enough away from any major town to keep the crowds out. It is by far one of my favorite destinations in Oregon. It's worth coming out if for nothing more than the milkshakes at Field's one store. Easily the best milkshake I've ever had. Bar none! The remote distance along with the blessing that there are no tourist traps are key factors why few venture this way. Unless one is into the outdoor scene most people have no reason to stop over. It's remote, void of people with few services. It does offer stunning vistas, solitude, and miles of open country. If one is seeking some solitude, it can certainly be found in the area without having to work at it. Some things have changed since my last visit two years ago. They now have a caretaker at the hot springs along with a small primitive campground and....they charge to soak. In the old days, it was simply there and you soaked. I'm not sure you can stop development, even in the last few remaining remote spots. The hot springs were located on a major ranch alongside a gravel road and many used it over the years. Eventually, the ranch had to do something to control it's usage so they hired the caretaker and made some improvements to the area. I hate development of something like this but I think it may be a good thing in this case. Hopefully, it will remain small and not develop into something else. Not sure if it's still true but at one time Harney County was the least populated county in the lower 48. From what I observed on this trip I'd say that statistic still holds true. The major metropolis of Fields (population of around 200 and those are well spread out) is about 100 miles from Burns, the nearest town of any size. Little lies between the two other than the one pump town of Frenchglen.
Shot by Kurt while flying his drone out on the Playa.
We have lift-off.
Lone track with some dust devils off in the distance.
Old homestead with Steen Mountain near Fields.
Alvord Hot Springs.
Afternoon soak.
Kurt's faithful companion, Bo. To say that this dog loves chasing a ball is putting it mildly.
Petey keeping an eye on Kurt as he returns to camp.
Petey won't chase the ball but he'll damn sure steal it and gnaw on it if Bo isn't paying close attention.
Petey getting it done out on the playa.
Afterwards, a nice nap was in order.
The wind had really picked up as the day progressed so we decided to camp on the edge of the playa and if still howling in the morning, leave and head back to the west side of Steen Mountain. We'd do the Steen Loop looking for some photo ops and camp somewhere on the mountain. Regrettably, the wind was still howling in the morning so we packed up and left in hopes that the wind would be less on the western side.
Gorge on Steen Mountain.
Not sure why I had never been in here before but Kurt said it was worth checking out. It was gated so we unloaded the dogs and hiked the remaining mile or so to access the homestead. Click on the following link if you want to read more about the brothers. Riddle Brothers Historic Homestead
Fall colors on the western slope.
Couple of wild horses up on Steen Mountain.
View from up top at around 10,000 feet. The loop road, the highest in the state, takes you right up to the rim with views of the Alvord Desert below.
After dropping some altitude we camped down near Fish Lake. Some hiking down in one of the valleys that afternoon with some pictures of the fall colors. The temperature really dropped that night as the small pond we camped next to was frozen over the following morning.
Kurt needed to get back to Bend so after a breakfast in Frenchglen we parted ways. I've travelled with Kurt on numerous occasions and it's always a good time. Thanks again Kurt. I decided to head over to the Hart Mountain Refuge to spend one more night in the area before heading back towards Bend. I knew it would be another cold night but with the hot spring at the campground, how bad could it be. After gassing up in Frenchglen (at almost $4.00 a gallon) I was headed to Hogback Road which is about 40 miles of gravel before I'd get to where camp would be for the night.
Hart Mountain Hot Spring. It was cold out and I even got some spitting snow late that afternoon. I didn't utilize this spring but soaked in this one.
Not a bad spot to spend a couple of hours.
The skies were really forecasting a storm moving in but we got lucky and never did get rain. Prior to finding a camp spot, Petey and I spent the afternoon driving around exploring some side roads, hiking, and doing much of nothing, which both of us have mastered. Sorry for the long post with too many pictures but it's a great area with lots to see.
I guess that about covers it.
