Thursday, June 18

Tiffany's Visit - Death Valley

So I've now been on the road for over three months and was really wanting to see my significant other, Tiffany.  Convinced her to fly down to Vegas.  From there we'd head north and go through Death Valley via dirt and drop her off in Reno. She only has 5 days before she has to get back home to take off on a business trip.  After leaving Page, I had a few days before she was to arrive so I decided to head over to the south rim of the Grand Canyon for a few nights.  It has been over 25 years since I've been to the south rim and I was astounded as to the changes and the number of people.  New buildings, visitor center and a parking lot that looks like something at a professional sports venue.  I'll bet there were 25 tour buses in the lot when I arrived late that evening and the parking lot was full. With such large crowds, it just takes something away from the grandeur of the canyon. I've been to the north rim many times over the years and if you've got the time to make the drive around it is definitely the way to go.  Minimal development and far fewer crowds.  I had hoped to camp in the park but, needless to say, that didn't happen.  The campgrounds were packed.  Once you leave the park it is very easy to dry camp on National Forest land just outside the park boundaries. I had planned to go the rim for some pictures and would be there to well after the sun set so I scouted a few places to camp prior to entering the park.  After pulling over at a spot to make a sandwich and let Petey run around a little, I noted that he was acting really strange.  Didn't want to roam around much and ended up underneath the truck and didn't want to come out.   Sitting on the trailer eating my sandwich wondering what in the hell is wrong with him when I look up in the tree not 20 yards from the truck and note this guy. No wonder Petey was acting a little strange.  Was hoping he'd come down so I could get some additional pics but he was content to simply sit up there and watch me.  Pretty sure when I rolled up there I had awakened him from a deep sleep.  He seemed pretty groggy.  Took some shots of him watching me, finished the sandwich, drug Petey out from underneath the truck and we were on our way. Damn bear probably thought we'd never leave!

Drove up the rim and hung out till after sunset just enjoying the view.

After one night up at the Canyon I headed over to the Lake Mead area where I camped for one night waiting for Tiffany's flight to arrive the following morning. After fighting the traffic in Vegas I scooped up Tiffany at the airport and headed north towards Death Valley. We were going to drive up through Teakettle Junction to the Racetrack Playa with the moving rocks, over Lippincott Pass down to Saline Valley and then the Saline Valley Hot Springs.  Once you turn off on the gravel road headed towards Teakettle Junction it is all gravel/dirt roads until you come out on the north end.  Probably about 70 miles and the road coming over Lippincott Pass is definitely four wheel material.  The rest of it is washboards from hell!  Beautiful country but slow going especially since I was pulling a trailer.  I had been through this area a couple of times via motorcycle over the years and trust me, doing it on a motorcycle is much, much easier.  Our plan was to camp the first night just past Racetrack Playa near Lippincott Pass and then head down to the Hot Springs for our second night.  Would have spent a few more nights back in here but Tiffany was short on time and we had to make Reno to catch a flight.
Teakettle Junction on the road from hell getting here.  Easily the most wash board road I've ever been on.  Have been here 3 times now and the first two trips were via motorcycle.  I swear I'll never do this again in a truck pulling a trailer.
Camp the first night just north of the playa.  We hiked back to the playa the following morning to view the moving rock phenomena.  The mystery that was just recently solved by some scientist.
Rising moon on the range behind camp that night.

Rock trail on the playa

Petey flying across the playa

Later that morning we headed down Lippincott.   Sitting on top of the pass I kept telling myself to scout it on the bike but didn't listen to my gut.  It almost cost me.  This can be a very rough road and depending on conditions can be completley washed out or in really bad shape, even unpassable.  The park maps don't even list this road.  I was told by a ranger years ago that they don't depict it on their maps because they don't want people on it.  I had been over it twice before via dirt bike but never in a truck.  On a dirt bike, it may be rough but you'll get through unless some catastrophic slide or something has occurred.   Had it of been washed out I don't think I could have gotten the trailer out.  Backing the truck up sans the trailer would have been painfully slow but doable.  I really think I would have had to simply push the trailer over the side in a couple of places had we not gotten through. This road is very narrow in places and once you start down you're committed, especially pulling a trailer.  No way to back up this nor anywhere to turn around.  I had to unhook the trailer and reposition the truck, hook back up, just to get around a switch back corner that wasn't even rough.  After a couple of miles we came to a section that was in really bad shape.  I was concerned about the trailer tires coming off the edge on a couple of areas where the road has previously washed out and the truck bottoming out.  If you get stuck, high centered or break down in here it can be bad, real bad.  AAA isn't going to come in here after you. With just the truck, it was four wheel driving but dragging the trailer compounded the "oh shit" factor.  With some of the step downs, we could have easily high centered.  Numerous places we had to haul rock to build up the road.  I had Tiffany walk ahead and spot me as we went down the worst areas.  I was very glad to get out of there. I realized I'd dodged a bullet and got lucky.   It took us about 3 hours to go 5 miles!  Luckily no one was coming up as there is simply no room in places to pass.  Someone would have had to do some serious backing up.  We didn't see another vehicle all day.  Never again will I not listen to my gut instinct about scouting something first, nor will I ever allow my dumb ass to drag a trailer down Lippincott!  Had I scouted it I would have never started down with the trailer.  You know it was bad when I didn't even take the camera out.  When I'm not taking pictures you know something has my full attention.  I was so concerned about getting us out of there the camera never crossed my mind.  Lesson learned!



By some miracle, we did survive and made our way to Saline Valley where we located the Hot Springs.  A couple of cold beers that night never tasted better.  Tiffany had some friends show up once we got camp set up. For some reason, this wild burro was fascinated with Tiffany.  There is a group of burro's that hang out here and can become a nuisance if you let them.  If not watched they'll get into your stuff.  They love cardboard and will consume it in large quantities if available.  This guy hung out with us in camp all afternoon and yes he got hold of the cereal box which he ate in short order.





We soaked that evening and the following morning it was over North Pass to exit Death Valley en-route to pavement and Bishop, California.
















   

3 comments:

  1. Park, Do you have any gpx maps of this trail? What time of year did you go and how was the temperature? I was thinking of doing Death Valley with my buddy. We both have Super Tenere's.

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    1. Robert....sent you an email. Let me know if you got it.

      Park

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  2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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