Homer - Katmai National Park

Finally made it out to Homer, Alaska.  It's only 200 miles from Anchorage but it's taken me a week to cover that.  Trust me when I say there is a lot to see and do in that 200 miles.  That, along with the fact that I've got to be the slowest traveler in the world. A stop to take a piss break alongside the road can turn into a half-day delay for me if I spot something or someone that appears interesting. It's bad with me. Not like this when I've got someone with me as you have to make compromises for others but when solo it's a different story. Pretty sure that's why I like traveling by myself most of the time. Petey doesn't seem to give a damn what we do as long as it's not in the rain.  One thing that has been on my list of things to do, which there are many, was to fly out to Katmai National Park. It is regarded as one of the best places to view Grizzlies in the world.  I'd seen numerous articles over the years showing great photos of Grizzlies and they normally had been photographed either on Kodiak Island or in the Katmai National Park.  Homer is the jumping off point for both areas.  A ferry is available over to Kodiak Island and I had hoped to do this as well but the ferry schedule didn't work out for me.  They had to cancel a couple of the runs due to engine problems.  Had been telling myself for years that if I ever got to Homer that I'd get out to Katmai National Park.  After getting camp set up in Homer's Municipal Park Campground (great campground above Homer with a beautiful view of the spit) I began to check on flights out to Katmai.  I quickly found out......it's expensive. Only way to Kamai is by bush plane or a very long boat ride.  To fly out for just a few short hours to Katmai ranges from $675 to $750. Overnite trips are through the roof pricewise.  Since I was solo I figured maybe I could get a cheaper seat if I could find an outfitter who was going and had one empty seat they wanted to fill at the last minute.  I had a few days to spend here so the first morning after my arrival I went to a couple to see if they had any empty seats.  No joy on the first day so I spent it roaming around Homer where I met yet another interesting character the locals call the Spoon Guy.  Was fun hearing some of his stories about the area, his life and how he goes about making his spoon's.

Second day, no luck again.  It wasn't looking good and thought I might have to go ahead and bite the bullet on this one.  Spent day two checking out Homer which has the designation of being the "Halibut Capital of the World".  They catch halibut out here that can way in excess of 200 pounds!  Homer is a beautiful spot at the end of the road.  The Homer Spit features the longest road into ocean waters in the world, and was named one of the best 100 beaches in the United States for it's incredible views and variety of wildlife along the 4.5 mile trail that runs from its base to its tip - the true end of the road on Alaska's Hwy 1.

Homer Spit.  Shot taken from Homer Municipal Campground.

Beach on the Spit in Homer, Alaska

Of course, had to check out The Salty Dawg Saloon located on the Spit.  Famous bar and landmark in Homer. (not my pic - pilfered off the web)

Third day, I showed up at an outfitter about an hour before the flight and they were flying a Cessena 172 over with three paying passengers.  I approached the pilot and said.....it appears that your flight is going whether you fill that last seat or not.  It can go empty or I can put my ass in it and you can make $350 more dollars. He thought on it for a minute and then stated that if he didn't fill it right up to the last minute then he'd let me hop on for $350 if I could pay in cash and keep my mouth shut about it.  He wasn't even sure the flight was going to go as it was really windy.  He stated that it would be a last minute decision because of the winds.  No one showed up, conditions were barely acceptable, my cash was pocketed and we were off.  Had I known what a great experience it was going to be I'd of easily paid full fare.  It was the highlight of my entire trip. If I win the lottery I'm going back to Katmai and spending an entire summer.  It's a little over an hour flight out to Katmai where you make a beach landing and then hike in about a mile or so before you start spotting bears.  The bear viewing is everything you read about but the scenery and remoteness of the area does not take a backseat.  It is a beautiful area.  Crystal clear streams, snow covered peaks, glaciers, remote beaches, no development, pristine wilderness, wildlife. Words do not do it justice.  Conditions were tough for pictures as the wind was howling the 4 hours we were there.  Wanted to switch lenses a couple of times but no way that was going to happen with all the blowing sand.  I'll just have to go back when conditions are better!  

Landing on this beach took three passes before he set it down due to winds.  Lady in the back seat about crapped herself before it was over with.  I'll admit.....after the second go round I was beginning to wonder as well.

The star attraction.....

These coastal Grizzlies are magnificent creatures.  I could watch and photograph them for days on end and not get bored.  It amazes me that there are idiots out there who hunt them for sport.  Luckily, the tide may be turning and killing them for pure sport will hopefully be banned.  The sooner the better!  Go to the link Ban Sport Hunting of Grizzlies and show your support if you think this senseless killing should be stopped.

  

Kenai Penisula

After spending 6 nights in Denali National Park I decided it was time to move on.  I had really needed to just lay up for a while and give myself a rest.  I had now covered well over 5000 miles, and had been on the road for about a month and other than a couple of nights had been on the move every day.  I enjoyed Denali, other than the couple of nights where the temps got down to freezing, but needed to get down to Anchorage to do some maintenance on the truck, re-supply at the commissary aboard Elemendorf-Richardson Joint Base and then head down to the Kenai Peninsula.  I ended up camping a couple of nights on the Air Force Base as I discovered they've got some really nice campsites. Elmendorf is a huge base with lots of undeveloped areas.  Couple of lakes provided a nice area for camping.   While camped aboard Elmendorf I met the gentleman pictured below who was working his dog at the campground lake. After briefly watching him and his dog we struck up a conversation and I found out that he had been diagnosed with a terminal cancer but his favorite thing to do, while still able, was to spend time with his dog.  They had quite a bond and the dog was well trained.  When he mentioned that he would love to have some pictures of his dog I told him I could make that happen. Broke out the gear and started shooting.  I later e-mailed him many of the pictures I took.  About killed Petey to stay in the truck with all this activity going on but I didn't let him out of the truck until Bob was through working his dog. Afterward, Petey and the lab romped and played along the lake until dark while Bob and I sat back and watched them.  I really enjoy running into people like this while out on the road, meeting them and hearing their story.  Everyone....... has a story.  Some more mundane than others but a story nonetheless.

Pretty impressive team.  Dog would retrieve decoys he couldn't even see simply by hand signals and whistle blasts.

Was hoping Petey would want to get in on some of that retrieving action after watching a real pro.  Didn't happen.  All he wanted to do was chase the lab around, harassing him while trying to take away the duck decoy.  What Petey would have done with it I'm not sure since it was bigger than he was. From this picture it appears Petey is a pointer and not a retriever!

Had planned on driving to Homer the following morning and I started that way but it ended up taking me another week to get there (it can easily be done in a day) because once again I stopped a lot and came across some really great campsites.  I was in no hurry so figured Homer would still be there.  The Kenai peninsula area is an outdoorsman's dream.  Fishing, hunting, wildlife, camping, scenery, rafting, glaciers, mountains, hiking.  The possibilities are endless.  If you get bored out here something is wrong with you.  All these activities, along with its rich gold rush and wilderness exploration history makes it a great place to really slow down and enjoy.

Iceberg in Portage Lake at the base of Portage Glacier

Fly fishermen on the Russian River

   

Salmon come up this river by the thousands to spawn and complete natures cycle.  Once they've completed their mission they begin the dying process.

Some end up on the dinner plate

One of the stops while on the Kenai was Seward. While getting gas when I first rolled into town I noticed quite a few black SUV's running around along with a lot of Alaska State Trooper cars as well.  I asked the attendant what was going on and he stated that Obama was coming to town in three days.  Good God, I didn't want to be here when that circus showed up so I decided I'd spend two nights and then get out of there. Headed up to the Kenai Fjords National Park and hiked into the Harding Icefield.  Weather wasn't much to speak of so didn't take any pictures of the icefield.  It is, an impressive sight and I'd love to get back during better weather.  Dropped back down and found a gravel bar to camp on for the night.

Coming clean here as I didn't take this picture but took it off the internet to show the Harding Icefield.  Was at this spot but covered in clouds and mist when I was there.  Could see the icefield but not the best conditions for a photo.

Campsite on a glacier-fed stream coming off the icefield

   

Seward Harbor

From Seward I headed over to a little town on the Cook Inlet called Nikiski. North of there is the James Cook State Park where I camped for the night.  Lot of history here as British explorer James Cook mapped and explored the area back in 1778.  Huge tides occur in this inlet.  Night I spent here we had a 29 foot tide differential. The mud flats can be very dangerous when the tide is out as in places it turns to quicksand and one can become trapped.  Every so often someone gets trapped and then drowns with the large incoming tide.  Petey went out on a flat and got stuck while hiking along the beach that evening.  I was mired up to my knees getting to him and he was only about 10 feet out from the high tide mark.  I could easily see how one could get in trouble very quick in this stuff.  Interesting area and well worth checking out.

Petey carrying some of Cook Inlet with him back to camp

Looking across Cook Inlet with glacier covered mountains on the far side.  When the tide is out halfway across the picture is mud flats and it's some nasty stuff.

Homer, Alaska and the highlight of the trip, Katmai National Park next......

  

Denali Hwy - National Park

 Alaskan Range & glacier viewed from the Denali Hwy

After leaving Wrangell-St Elias I continued west skirting the Cooper River Basin towards GlenAllen.  From there it was north up towards Paxson where I would get on the Denali Highway headed to the Denali National Park. My plan  was  to lay up for  5-7 days once in the park.  Would have to pay for camping there but wouldn't be spending much on gas. Having been to Denali twice before, I was looking forward to it again as the photo opportunities are excellent.  But first, the Denali Highway, which is little used and poorly maintained, and closed to all traffic from October to mid-May each year.  It's about 140 miles in length with about 23 of that being paved. The rest is pretty beat up dirt/gravel and is slow going but well worth the drive as it passes through some the most beautiful scenery in the state.  It would dump me out just south of the National Park.  I ended up taking two nights and three days to do it as there is just so much to see, free camping, great hiking, and the fishing wasn't bad either.

Musher working his team in preparation for the winter season

Wildlife viewing is really good along this corridor.

 Campsite.

 Drone shot of campsite.

 Campsite.  Grayling fishing here was very good!

 Glacier in the background.

 What a view from this place.

 Mr. Bear left a calling card right outside camp during the night.

 Alaskan Raven in camp one evening.

Petey surveying the situation.

Once I arrived in Denali National Park I checked in at the camp center to pay for a campsite.  I ended up spending 4 nights in one camp and then moved further into the park and stayed at Savage River for two more.  I hiked, drove into the park each evening for photo ops and generally just hung out with Petey the rest of the time.  Only touristy thing I did was attend the lecture by the park service on their sled dog operations. The park still utilizes sled dogs during the winter months to conduct back-country patrols.  I took what is one of my favorite shots from the entire trip while there.

One of my favorites.

Trying to catch up on the blog posts and will post more on Alaska soon.