Quick Autumn Trip

Finally, dirt under the wheels.  Petey's and the Chinook.

Here's what I hate, ok dislike, as hate's a strong word, about the corridor between Portland and Seattle....friggin traffic and people.  Saving grace is that just a short distance,  east or west, of this cement slab one can find ample solitude and scenery.   Deciding I needed some of each, we planned to leave on Wednesday and spend five nights out roaming about, but no, the sewer god's had something else in mind for me. Tiffany's sewer line at the warehouse decided it needed some TLC. In order to provide this required TLC, a large hole would be in order.  Sadly, I was chosen to be the digger. Nothing more fun than moving dirt and working with plugged sewer lines. 

Designated shit pipe digger

This endeavor cut into the roam about time but we were able to leave Friday morning and after fighting the normal I-5 traffic, finally put some dirt/gravel under the tires near Packwood.  One can leave the small town of Packwood just south of Mount Rainier and explore quite a few backroads heading south through the Gifford Pinochet National Forest. Eventually, these backroads will dump you out near Hood River in Oregon.  It's approximately 100 miles between the two areas. There was some washed out roads which required some go-arounds but we eventually made it to Lake Takhlakh which we had all to ourselves.  Due to the intermittent rain showers, low-lying cloud cover, and the elevation (4400 ft) the first night out was damp and cold. With Tiffany bundled up in her pajamas and the heat cranking, we survived the night. 

With the weather conditions we had upon our arrival, you would have never known Mount Adams, at an elevation of 12,280, was out there somewhere looming over the lake. A drastic weather improvement during the night and with sunrise, Mount Adams was indeed there.

     Lake Takhlak and Mount Adams

We wasted an hour enjoy coffee alongside the lake before heading south towards Hood River.  A few short hikes and stops along the way.

 Twin Falls along the Lewis River

 Mount St Helens

 Water and green are in abundance along this route

After a late lunch in Hood River at one of the local breweries, it was off to find a spot for the night.  Ended up in Viento State Park. Wouldn't recommend this spot for camping as it sits right alongside the train tracks.  Seemed like a train came along on the hour throughout the night. Following day we worked our way along the historic route 30 through the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area.  Hiking trails, neat gorges, and waterfalls being abundant along this section.

Oneonta Gorge

Bonneville Dam

Ended up in the little town of Troutdale where we discovered dispersed (free) camping was hard to come by so we stopped at McMennamin's Resort well after dark and hoped to just stay in the large parking lot.  Figured we'd spend the night there and leave for home early the next morning.  Didn't happen.  No sooner had we gotten ready to settle in for the night and security came along and ran us off. Guy was nice about it and told us the location of a Wal-Mart that allowed overnight stays in their lot. Considering the late hour....parking lot at Wal Mart would have to do. An early departure the following morning and we were able to cruise back into Tacoma with a quick Autumn trip in the books.

Eastern Oregon

One of many long remote dirt/gravel roads in the area.

Three weeks ago I was in the lush rainforest along the coast of British Colombia looking for grizzlies.  This past week a friend of mine, Kurt, along with our faithful companions, Bo and Petey, were out exploring the high desert basin and Steen Mountain in eastern Oregon. Two vastly different areas but each with their own merits. Kurt and I left Bend late one afternoon and two hours later were looking for some boondock camping between Bend and Burns.  We located a dirt road heading up towards a ridgeline and after maybe a mile of crawling along and gaining some altitude found a level spot for the night. A short walk with the dogs and we called it a night. The following morning with the sun lighting the valley floor we broke camp and worked our way back off the ridge towards the highway.

Kurt working his Sprinter Van off the ridge back towards pavement.

Once back on pavement, our destination was the Alvord Desert at the eastern base of Steen Mountain. Each of us has probably explored and camped in this area dozens of times over the years but never seem to tire of it and continue to return.  It's one of those areas that is just far enough away from any major town to keep the crowds out. It is by far one of my favorite destinations in Oregon. It's worth coming out if for nothing more than the milkshakes at Field's one store. Easily the best milkshake I've ever had. Bar none! The remote distance along with the blessing that there are no tourist traps are key factors why few venture this way.   Unless one is into the outdoor scene most people have no reason to stop over.  It's remote, void of people with few services. It does offer stunning vistas, solitude, and miles of open country.  If one is seeking some solitude, it can certainly be found in the area without having to work at it. Some things have changed since my last visit two years ago. They now have a caretaker at the hot springs along with a small primitive campground and....they charge to soak. In the old days, it was simply there and you soaked. I'm not sure you can stop development, even in the last few remaining remote spots. The hot springs were located on a major ranch alongside a gravel road and many used it over the years.  Eventually, the ranch had to do something to control it's usage so they hired the caretaker and made some improvements to the area. I hate development of something like this but I think it may be a good thing in this case.  Hopefully, it will remain small and not develop into something else. Not sure if it's still true but at one time Harney County was the least populated county in the lower 48. From what I observed on this trip I'd say that statistic still holds true. The major metropolis of Fields (population of around 200 and those are well spread out) is about 100 miles from Burns, the nearest town of any size. Little lies between the two other than the one pump town of Frenchglen.

Shot by Kurt while flying his drone out on the Playa.

We have lift-off.

Lone track with some dust devils off in the distance.

 Old homestead with Steen Mountain near Fields.

 Alvord Hot Springs.

 Afternoon soak.

Kurt's faithful companion, Bo. To say that this dog loves chasing a ball is putting it mildly.  

Petey keeping an eye on Kurt as he returns to camp.

 Petey won't chase the ball but he'll damn sure steal it and gnaw on it if Bo isn't paying close attention.

Petey getting it done out on the playa.

Afterwards, a nice nap was in order.

The wind had really picked up as the day progressed so we decided to camp on the edge of the playa and if still howling in the morning, leave and head back to the west side of Steen Mountain.  We'd do the Steen Loop looking for some photo ops and camp somewhere on the mountain. Regrettably, the wind was still howling in the morning so we packed up and left in hopes that the wind would be less on the western side.

 Gorge on Steen Mountain.

 Not sure why I had never been in here before but Kurt said it was worth checking out.  It was gated so we unloaded the dogs and hiked the remaining mile or so to access the homestead.  Click on the following link if you want to read more about the brothers.  Riddle Brothers Historic Homestead 

 Fall colors on the western slope.

Couple of wild horses up on Steen Mountain.

View from up top at around 10,000 feet.  The loop road, the highest in the state, takes you right up to the rim with views of the Alvord Desert below.

After dropping some altitude we camped down near Fish Lake. Some hiking down in one of the valleys that afternoon with some pictures of the fall colors. The temperature really dropped that night as the small pond we camped next to was frozen over the following morning.

Kurt needed to get back to Bend so after a breakfast in Frenchglen we parted ways. I've travelled with Kurt on numerous occasions and it's always a good time. Thanks again Kurt. I decided to head over to the Hart Mountain Refuge to spend one more night in the area before heading back towards Bend.  I knew it would be another cold night but with the hot spring at the campground, how bad could it be. After gassing up in Frenchglen (at almost $4.00 a gallon) I was headed to Hogback Road which is about 40 miles of gravel before I'd get to where camp would be for the night.

Hart Mountain Hot Spring. It was cold out and I even got some spitting snow late that afternoon.  I didn't utilize this spring but soaked in this one.

Not a bad spot to spend a couple of hours.

The skies were really forecasting a storm moving in but we got lucky and never did get rain. Prior to finding a camp spot, Petey and I spent the afternoon driving around exploring some side roads, hiking, and doing much of nothing, which both of us have mastered. Sorry for the long post with too many pictures but it's a great area with lots to see.

I guess that about covers it.

Bella Coola - Chilcotin Plateau

Months, if not years, could be spent roaming around between Williams Lake and Bella Coola in British Columbia.  The area in between makes up the Chilcotin Plateau which could keep one busy for many months without ever getting to the end of the road.  Having been to this area before I knew I'd be going back after my last visit a few years ago.  It's an outdoor mecca with scenic views, glaciers, photo opportunities, great hiking, fishing, climbing, canoeing, wildlife (black/grizzly bear, wolf, cougar, eagle & moose can be found) and most importantly, few people. Tweedsmuir Provincial Park is in the valley and offers 2.5 million acres of true wilderness.  Due west of Williams Lake, the Bella Coola valley is a 284-mile one-way drive to where the road ends at the coast.  About 50 of these miles are dirt and take you over Heckman Pass which has a 15% grade in places, numerous switchbacks, and steep drops. Kind of road where you pay attention to what you're doing. No road access was available until 1953 when some of the local residents put the road in without government help.  Will probably never be paved as the grade would be too steep with pavement.  Little ice or frost on a paved surface with this grade and you'd play hell getting something stopped. Locals say that in the winter they can rough the road up with a grader which allows one to drive over it even if it's covered in ice. Once you drive this road you'll appreciate the effort that went into its construction.  My main reason for coming back up here, other than the sheer beauty of the area, was to photograph Grizzly Bears. During the fall Salmon run the bears congregate on the Atnarko river to fatten up for the winter.  With a little patience, bear viewing is almost guaranteed this time of the year.

Crossing the Fraser River just west of Williams Lake.

Quick stop at an old cemetery on a First Nation Reservation.

Fraser River.

Drone shot of the road leading to Heckman Pass.

The Chilcotin Plateau and Bella Coola Valley is literally crawling with bears.  One needs to keep their head on a swivel when in certain areas.  I had a sow with a cub walk within 20 feet of me before realizing she was there.   Vigilance, common sense, and as a last resort, bear spray, are some things you want to bring with you.  I love to watch Grizzlies do what bears do in their natural surroundings.  I would get on the river at daybreak and many days, not leave till dark.  If you're into viewing & photographing bears it's pretty good here.

 Sow with cub feeding on salmon.

 Boar male.

 

Big Boar male who was missing his left ear.

There aren't many side roads you can take once over the pass and into the Bella Coola Valley.  The ones that are there are more suited to a four-wheel drive, which the Chinook is not.  Not being the sharpest tack in the box I attempted to take the Chinook a couple of places I shouldn't have.  A road leading up to one of the waterfalls is about 15 miles in.  As I'm sitting looking at the sign around the 12-mile mark I'm telling myself this is not a good idea.   I even got out and walked it and as I'm walking back to the rig was telling myself not to try it.  I didn't listen and got after it.  I didn't make it.  Halfway up one of the steeper sections things went south and I began to spin which brought me to a quick standstill.  I ended up backing up for almost a mile before being able to turn around.  Note to self..... a class B van, minus four-wheel drive, is not suited for off road travel.  I'm going to end up turning the Chinook into a piece of junk if I keep taking it off-road.   The backing up part was not fun.

Got a couple of drone shots near camp that night. Bella Coola River in the background.

 View in the Bella Coola Valley.

 Floaters on the Atnarko River.

 Bouldering in the valley.

Many hiking opportunities.

Ended up spending four days in the valley before climbing back over the pass to the Chilcotin Plateau where I drove back into Choelquoit and Chilko Lake in Nemiah Valley. More bears, wildlife, and scenery.  Heard wolves at night but no sightings.

Choelquoit Lake 

Looking for pavement before the approaching storm hits.

 Petey running cows off the road. These trips couldn't be completed without Petey!

Camp for the night.

I had planned to do a loop back in Nemiah Valley as I'd been in here before but the road I was looking for washed out and was impassable.  Only way back out was the way I'd come in.  Getting dark, I pulled into a wilderness lodge to inquire about another option and ended up staying the night.  I met Hans and his girlfriend who were both from Switzerland.  They cater to Europeans coming over looking for a rustic wilderness experience.  A small area for camping, rustic cabins and a small community lodge/kitchen.  Everything on solar power.  He offers horseback trips into the backcountry along with boat tours of Chilko Lake and river. Was fun to stay overnight and have breakfast with the group the following morning.  Hans was looking after a ranch on the Chilko River not far from his place and let me have access to see some more, you guessed it, Grizzlies.

 Hans and his girlfriend preparing breakfast.

Group feed.

Was another great "roam about" in a beautiful area.  The area even puts a smile on Han's pig!